9 Ways to Prepare Your Car for Winter Weather

Winterizing your vehicle is a wise idea, says the Car Care Council.  An investment of an hour or two to have your vehicle checked is all it takes to have peace of mind and help avoid the cost and hassle of a breakdown during severe weather.

“The last thing any driver needs is a vehicle that breaks down in cold, harsh winter weather,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “A vehicle check before the temperatures drop is a sensible way to avoid the inconvenience of being stranded out in the cold and with the unexpected expense of emergency repairs.”

The Car Care Council recommends the following nine steps for winterizing your vehicle.

1. Have the battery and charging system checked for optimum performance. Cold weather is hard on batteries.
2. Clean, flush and put new antifreeze in the cooling system. As a general rule of thumb, this should be done every two years.
3. Make sure heaters, defrosters and wipers work properly. Consider winter wiper blades and use cold weather washer fluid. As a general rule, wiper blades should be replaced every six months.
4. Check the tire tread depth and tire pressure. If snow and ice are a problem in your area, consider special tires designed to grip slick roads. During winter, tire pressure should be checked weekly.
5. Be diligent about changing the oil and filter at recommended intervals. Dirty oil can spell trouble in winter. Consider changing to “winter weight” oil if you live in a cold climate. Have your technician check the fuel, air and transmission filters at the same time.
6. If you’re due for a tune-up, have it done before winter sets in. Winter magnifies existing problems such as pings, hard starts, sluggish performance or rough idling.
7. Have the brakes checked. The braking system is the vehicle’s most important safety item.
8. Have the exhaust system checked for carbon monoxide leaks, which can be especially dangerous during cold weather driving when windows are closed.
9. Check to see that exterior and interior lights work and headlights are properly aimed.

Car Care: The Key to a Long-Lasting Vehicle

National Car Care Month in April is the time of year to give your car some extra attention. Basic car care is the key to a long-lasting vehicle, improving its safety and dependability, says the Car Care Council.

“Neglected vehicle care almost always means much higher costs down the line in the form of more extensive repairs or lost resale value,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Following a routine maintenance program makes financial sense, extending useful vehicle life and helping avoid costly repairs down the road.”

The Car Care Council recommends 10 basic maintenance procedures to keep your car operating at its best for the long haul:

1. Check all fluids, including engine oil, power steering, brake and transmission as well as windshield washer solvent and antifreeze/coolant.

2. Check the hoses and belts to make sure they are not cracked, brittle, frayed, loose or showing signs of excessive wear.

3. Check the battery and replace if necessary. Make sure the connection is clean, tight and corrosion-free.

4. Check the brake system annually and have the brake linings, rotors and drums inspected at each oil change.

5. Inspect the exhaust system for leaks, damage and broken supports or hangers if there is an unusual noise. Exhaust leaks can be dangerous and must be corrected without delay.

6. Schedule a tune-up to help the engine deliver the best balance of power and fuel economy and produce the lowest level of emissions.

7. Check the heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) system as proper heating and cooling performance is critical for interior comfort and for safety reasons such as defrosting.

8. Inspect the steering and suspension system annually including shock absorbers, struts and chassis parts such as ball joints, tie rod ends and other related components.

9. Check the tires, including tire pressure and tread. Uneven wear indicates a need for wheel alignment. Tires should also be checked for bulges and bald spots.

10. Check the wipers and lighting so that you can see and be seen. Check that all interior and exterior lighting is working properly and replace worn wiper blades so you can see clearly when driving during precipitation.

Auto Repair: Wondering About Your Warranty?

It’s a common misconception that only car dealers can perform the routine maintenance and repairs on a newer vehicle that is under warranty. In fact, it is law that consumers can patronize their neighborhood repair shop or do the work themselves without violating the manufacturer’s warranty, says the Car Care Council.

Consumers are protected by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, enforced by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), which prohibits a manufacturer from voiding the vehicle warranty because service was done by a non-dealer. According to the FTC, “It’s illegal for a dealer to deny your warranty coverage simply because you had routine maintenance or repairs performed by someone else. Routine maintenance often includes oil changes, tire rotations, belt replacement, fluid checks and flushes, new brake pads and inspections.”

“Many motorists wonder if they will void their factory warranty if someone other than the dealer services their vehicle,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “The truth is that consumers can have routine repairs performed by their local independent repair shop or do the work themselves without affecting the warranty. It is also important to note that using aftermarket parts does not void the warranty.”

When using a non-dealer, independent aftermarket shop to maintain your vehicle, the council strongly recommends keeping records and receipts for all maintenance that is done to the vehicle and adhering to scheduled maintenance requirements. If a warranty claim arises, these records will provide proof that maintenance has been done in accordance with the manufacturers’ recommendations and requirements.

4 Tips for Safe Halloween Driving

1. Brakes

A vehicle’s brake system is the most critical safety item on a vehicle, but brakes wear out and eventually need replacement. Several factors that affect brake wear include driving habits, operating conditions, vehicle type and the quality of the brake lining material. Never put off routine brake inspections or any needed repairs, such as letting the brakes get to the “metal-to-metal” point, which can be potentially dangerous and lead to more costly repairs.

2. Windshield Wipers & Fluid

A dirty windshield may look spooky but does not help to see children crossing the street. If the weather turns, cracked or torn wipers will also pose a problem to visibility.

3. Vehicle Lights

Check that all your lights are working for maximum performance and visibility on Halloween. This year, the end of Daylight Saving Time isn’t until Nov. 3, which means that children will be out at dusk trick-or-treating. Driving at dusk is difficult because although the sky is still bright, objects on the road can merge with shadows and fade into darkness.

4. Street Safety

Parents and adults should remind their little ghosts and goblins to get out of cars on the curb side and not the traffic side, to stop at all corners and to use crosswalks. Children should look left, right and left again before crossing, stay on sidewalks, avoid crossing through yards and wear bright, reflective and flame retardant clothing.

“We can all help keep young pedestrians safe on Halloween by checking our vehicle’s safety items, reminding children of basic safety rules and taking extra precautions when driving through neighborhoods,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council.

AAA: Synthetic Oil Outperforms the Cheap Stuff

Synthetic oil may lighten your wallet during an oil change, but a new study by AAA finds significant benefits under the hood. In an independent evaluation, synthetic oil outperformed its conventional counterpart by almost 50 percent, the agency announced today.

AAA's 59-page report documents a range of industry-standard tests. The agency evaluated synthetic and conventional oil in eight tests that analyzed things like deposit formation, low-temperature performance and oxidation viscosity. AAA found synthetic oil protects critical engine parts 47 percent better on average than regular oil. With superior resistance to deterioration, synthetic oil should benefit newer cars, as well as those with turbocharged engines and anything driven in a lot of stop-and-go traffic, towing conditions or extreme temperatures.

A few cars require synthetic oil, but AAA says all cars can benefit from it. The agency found nearly half of all drivers don't know if synthetic oil is any better for their engine or think it isn't. Some think it's nothing more than upsell gimmickry, a factor that may boost already-high distrust in repair shops. Still, 45 percent of drivers use the stuff, according to AAA.

The difference in price is nothing to sneeze at. Oil changes cost $38 on average with regular oil and $70 with synthetic, AAA found. But if you change your own oil, you can recoup some of the difference. AAA found five quarts of synthetic oil averages $45 — only $17 more than the cheap stuff. Synthetic oil also resists breakdown better than conventional oil, so you may be able to drive farther between oil changes. (Check your car's owner's manual, as well as the labels on the oil itself, for specifics.)

"It's understandable that drivers may be skeptical of any service that is nearly twice the cost of the alternative," said John Nielsen, AAA's managing director of Automotive Engineering and Repair, in a statement. "While a manufacturer-approved conventional oil will not harm a vehicle's engine, the extra $30 per oil change could actually save money in the long run by protecting critical engine components over time."

What Is the Honda Fit's B1 Service?

 

The B1 service indicator popped up on our 2015 Honda Fit when the mileage hit roughly 14,000, signifying it was time for the Fit's second oil change following the A1 oil change at 6,800 miles. The Honda Fit's Maintenance Minder system sends an alert at specific intervals when certain services and maintenance tasks are due based on mileage and engine-operating conditions.

The "B" represents an oil and filter change plus mechanical inspection, while the "1" means it's time to have the vehicle's tires rotated. When the Maintenance Minder system indicates that your fit needs B1 service, the service should include the following inspections, according to the Honda Fit's owner's manual:

• Inspect front and rear brakes/service as necessary
• Check parking brake adjustment
• Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox and boots
• Inspect suspension components
• Inspect driveshaft boots
• Inspect brake hoses and lines (including the antilock braking and vehicle stability assist systems)
• Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids (brake fluid, transmission fluid, coolant, etc.)
• Inspect exhaust system
• Inspect fuel lines and connections

Our local Honda dealership had its own interpretation of the B1 scheduled maintenance that included a brake service at an elevated cost even before taking a look at the brakes. We declined this front rotor cleaning and front caliper slide pin lubrication considering our car's low miles and owner's manual only suggesting service if needed.

How I Can Tell What That Leak in My Driveway Is?

Whether you spot a puddle under your car or just a few drops, there are several possible culprits, and color alone might not explain what it is. How can you figure it out? To be sure, you’ll need to pinpoint where it’s coming from using your eyes and your nose.
Ways to Identify Leaking Fluids

Engine oil can be amber (if it’s fresh), brown or — if it hasn’t been changed for 10,000 miles — black, and it will leave slickness on your fingers that’s hard to wipe off. Oil can leak from gaskets and seals on the front or rear of an engine, from valve covers or from the oil pan underneath, so there are several possible sources of an oil leak.

Transmission fluid is usually reddish and slick, though some come in other colors and can be thicker or thinner than engine oil. If you suspect a transmission fluid leak, consult your owner’s manual to see how to check the fluid level. If you can get a clear look at the transmission, check for leaks around the seals or gaskets.

Power-steering fluid is usually reddish, and on some vehicles it’ll be the same fluid that goes into the transmission. Check the fluid level in the power-steering reservoir and look for leaks in the reservoir and the hoses coming from it.

Engine coolant can be green, yellow, pink or another color, so check your coolant overflow tank to see what’s in your radiator. Is the overflow tank empty? Maybe you’ve found your problem. Coolant usually feels like slimy water and has a sweet smell. Leaks can come from the overflow tank, the radiator, the water pump, coolant hoses and elsewhere. For your own safety, wait until your engine is cold before opening the radiator cap.

Brake fluid can be light brown or even clear when new, but it typically darkens as it ages. It’s also slippery — and vital to stopping your car. That’s a good reason to treat a brake fluid leak as an emergency. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (usually near the firewall on the driver’s side) and see if you can see any leaks there. The fluid gets pumped through brake lines to the wheels, so leaks could be much further downstream and out of sight.

A few drops of fluid on your driveway isn’t reason to panic, especially on an older car. Seepage and minor leaks are par for the course on vehicles with several years and thousands of miles on the clock. That said, any leak should be a wake-up call to keep an eye on things before it becomes a gusher, and to regularly check fluid levels (all of them) to make sure you aren’t running low anywhere.

Why Is the Battery Light On?

 

 If the battery warning light (a light in the shape of a battery symbol) on the dashboard comes on while you're driving, that means the charging system isn't working, but the fault may lie in something other than the battery.

The cause of the battery light could be a loose or corroded battery cable or other wire connecting components of the charging system, or it might be a problem with the alternator or voltage regulator. The alternator generates the power that is stored in the battery. If the alternator fails, or the accessory belt that drives the alternator is loose or broken, then you'll end up with a dead battery because the bad alternator isn't recharging the battery.

The car battery itself may be the cause if it has corroded cable terminals, bad wiring, damaged cells or plates inside or if it is leaking electrolyte. This article refers primarily to conventional vehicles with conventional 12-volt batteries; more electrified vehicles and those higher-voltage electrical systems will vary.

The charging system warning light should show for a few seconds when you start the car, but if the battery light shows while you're driving the vehicle, that light signals a problem. Among other signs that the alternator or other parts of the charging system aren't working are dim headlights or the clock losing time.

If the car's dashboard battery light comes on, you might be able to make it home or to a service facility for a repair. The car will continue running as long as some juice is left in the battery, but if the charging system isn't working or you have a bad alternator, your car's engine will stop running once the battery is drained. If you turn off the engine, you won't be able to restart it if the battery doesn't have enough charge left to power the engine's starter motor.

If the battery light is on and you're still driving the car, turn off as many electrical accessories as you can, such as the stereo, air conditioning or heater, and avoid using electrical controls such as power windows.

Reducing the amount of electricity the car is consuming will increase the distance you can drive before the battery is discharged. Get to a mechanic as quickly as possible, and have the battery, wires and charging system checked out to find the cause of your problem and what you need to repair or replace.

Pros and Cons of Replacing Your Own Brakes

 

 If you have the know-how to do your own brake work or know someone who does and is willing to share their expertise for free, the do-it-yourself approach to replacing brake pads and rotors on your vehicle can save you lots of money. But be sure you know what's wrong before you get started or you could waste a lot of both. Modern brake systems are complex, and while replacing your brake pads and rotors is a fairly straightforward process, it could go wrong if you aren't sure what you're doing.

The cost of brake pads, rotors, calipers and other parts varies widely by brand and model, and you should expect to pay more for brake work on a vehicle like a BMW than on a Honda. Doing it yourself also means you choose the parts that go on your car, you're in charge of quality control and you do it on your own schedule. If you are thinking about doing your own brake job and your vehicle has disc brakes, there are a few supplies you need to have on hand:

• Brake fluid
• Brake pads
• Brake rotors (sometimes referred to as brake discs)
• Brake grease

You will also need a C-clamp or a specialized brake tool to compress the pistons in your brake calipers to remove the old brake pads. Brake service seems simple enough. All you need to do is put the car up on a jack, use jack stands for extra safety, loosen the lug nuts, remove the wheel, replace the pads and possibly the rotors, and pour in some brake fluid, right?

Unfortunately, do-it-yourself brake repair is a bit more complex than that. The components of disc brake systems are located directly behind each wheel, and in some vehicles, there isn't much room to maneuver. Because your wheels travel through rain, snow and other debris, brake parts, like calipers, also commonly rust, making them difficult to remove. And these are just a few of the things that can make a basic brake job more difficult.

Unlike the old days, when a pair of "snow tires" would be mounted to the drive wheels only for winter use, today we recognize that a vehicle should have four matching tires whether they be front tires or rear tires: same type, same model and, yes, even same degree of wear. The reason is simple: A car with four tires that behave the same — whether accelerating, braking or cornering — is balanced and predictable. If any of these factors are different at one or more wheels, traction characteristics can vary and performance will be unbalanced.

Tread depth is measured in 32nds of an inch, and most new tires typically have 10/32 to 12/32 (5/16 to 3/8) of an inch of tread. If a car's other tires have lost only 2/32 or up to maybe 4/32 of their original tread depth, it's probably OK to replace just the damaged tire.

There can be exceptions, though. Some manufacturers of all-wheel-drive vehicles recommend that all four tires be replaced, not just one or two, because a new tire will have a larger overall diameter than the other tires. The ones that have lost just a few 32nds of tread depth will spin faster than the new one, and the difference could cause an AWD system to engage on dry pavement and possibly damage the system.

On an AWD vehicle or one with a conventional four-wheel-drive system, all four tires would ideally be replaced at the same time so they all have the same amount of traction as well as the same diameter.

On a front- or rear-wheel-drive vehicle, similar guidelines apply. If half or more of the tread on all four tires is gone, replacing just one tire will result in one wheel spinning at a slower rate than the others, possibly sending false signals to the traction control and antilock braking systems. It also will result in one tire having more or less traction for acceleration, braking and cornering grip than the others, which can affect a vehicle's behavior. On a two-wheel-drive vehicle, regardless of being FWD or RWD, a better approach would be to replace the pair on the same axle. The best approach, though, is to replace all four if the tread on the old tires is significantly worn.

One way to avoid buying more than one tire is to have the tread on the new one "shaved" so it matches the depth of the others. Some tire dealers will shave off some tread depth on a special machine for a fee.

If you decide to replace only one tire, the replacement should be the same model, size and tread pattern as the others. A different brand or model tire will have even greater differences in traction and number of revolutions per mile, and it's likely to wear at a different rate. That means it could conceivably wear out faster than the others, even if it starts out with more tread depth.

Whether you decide to replace just one tire or more, tire experts advise that the new rubber should be mounted on the rear. If new tires are mounted on the front, the worn tires in the rear would be more susceptible to hydroplaning — riding on top of water on the road — and possibly causing the vehicle to rotate in a turn. The last thing you want to be doing in pouring rain is recovering from a spin.

Do you need to replace a car's damaged wheel? Not if it's cosmetic or superficial damage, such as from scraping a curb. If your car has steel wheels, you might just have a damaged wheel cover; if the underlying steel rim is sound, you merely have an aesthetic problem and might choose to repair or replace the cover. It's a similar story for alloy wheels, which don't have covers: If a scuffed rim is still round and has no bent sections or chunks of metal missing, it's likely the problem is merely cosmetic — but it's wise to keep an eye on any wheel that has sustained curb rash to ensure that the tire doesn't develop a slow leak over time.
 On the other hand, if the wheel is bent, dented, cracked or structurally weakened from hitting a massive pothole, running over a steep curb or some other mishap, it may need to be replaced, though it could possibly be repaired. A dented wheel may not be able to maintain a seal with the tire bead, resulting in consistent slow leaks or blowouts, and it will be difficult if not impossible to balance so that it doesn't vibrate at speed. A wheel with structural damage could eventually break apart. When in doubt about the severity of damage, a mechanic experienced in assessing wheel damage should inspect the entire wheel with the tire removed.

Whether to repair or replace a bent wheel is often a judgment call, but because it involves safety as well as cosmetic concerns, the best course is to err on the side of safety and avoid a delay.

Repair services that promise to restore badly damaged rims to like-new condition might be able to remove dents and bends to make a rim look great again. However, there are no federal vehicle safety standards that apply to refurbished wheels, so you'll be taking your chances as to whether they'll still have their original strength and integrity.

Repairing more than superficial rim damage will not be an easy do-it-yourself project. Heat and specialized machines are used to straighten bends, and a complete refurbishment involves removing all paint and protective coatings, repairing corrosion and physical damage, then applying new paint and clear coat.

The repair cost will vary by rim size and the type and amount of damage, and it might approach the price of a new or used replacement. Many original-equipment aluminum wheels can cost hundreds of dollars to replace — or even thousands in the case of luxury and sports cars, which combine larger wheels with low-profile tires that provide less protection. So buying a used one can save money. However, it might be hard to determine if a used wheel had prior damage and is refurbished.

Can Brake Fluid Go Bad?

 Can brake fluid go bad? Indeed it can, and you might not be able to tell if it has just by looking. Most cars have see-through master cylinder reservoirs for brake fluid under the hood so owners can check at a glance to make sure it’s at the proper level. That, however, tells you nothing about the condition of the fluid.
 Braking systems are hydraulic and filled with fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water over time, particularly in areas with high humidity, when moisture seeps through a car's rubber hoses and seals. Water reduces the boiling point of brake fluid, and in situations that put high demands on your brakes — such as mountain driving, towing or making repeated hard stops — the fluid can become so hot that it impairs stopping ability or causes temporary loss of braking power. Gas bubbles are introduced to the brake lines and calipers when brake fluid boils, and because gas is compressible and brake fluid shouldn't be, the brake pedal travels farther, feels spongier and braking is less effective.

Checking the Brake Fluid Level
Because of this, some manufacturers recommend changing your car's brake fluid as often as every two years to prevent contamination. Others have longer intervals, and some make no recommendation about changing brake fluid. Owners should consult their vehicle's owner’s manual to see what the manufacturer recommends. If you’re unsure what to do, consult a repair shop and ask them to test your brake fluid.

One sign that your brake fluid is contaminated with water is that your brake pedal will have more travel than normal. That could also be a sign that your fluid level is low, the brake pads are worn or there’s air in your brake lines. Because the same symptom can suggest a variety of issues, having a trusted mechanic perform a thorough brake diagnosis is your best course of action. Seasoned mechanics can usually tell if fluid needs changing, as it will be dark and murky; if in doubt, ask your mechanic for more proof than an eyeball test.

You can check brake fluid levels yourself by locating the car's brake master cylinder reservoir. The reservoir that holds the brake fluid is typically located under the hood on the driver's side near the firewall. The reservoirs are often clear, but years and tens of thousands of miles of driving means you might have to take a rag and scrub engine grime and dirt off the reservoir to get an accurate look at the level, which should be near the full mark. Low brake fluid could mean a few things as mentioned above, including issues such as the brake pads being worn or there's a leak.

What Type of Brake Fluid to Use
There are various types of brake fluid: DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5. DOT 4 has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 and may be a good addition for heavy use like towing and high-performance cars (if your vehicle allows DOT 4). DOT 5 has a higher boiling point than DOT 4 but is silicone-based, which means it's less susceptible to absorbing moisture like the glycol-based DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids. You still need to check and use the fluid recommended for your vehicle because brake system damage can occur if you add DOT 5 fluid to a vehicle that specifies DOT 3 or 4.

Though some repair shops use maintenance or repair visits as an opportunity to sell additional services, that doesn’t mean you should dismiss a sales pitch for fresh fluid. In addition to affecting brake performance, contaminated brake fluid with water in the brake fluid can also cause corrosion over time. Down the road, you may need to replace rusted components in your brake system.

The bottom line: When it comes to brakes, it’s better to be safe than sorry. For more on how to keep your brakes in good shape, plus a guide to the rest of your vehicle's fluids, check out the video below.

If I Seldom Drive, What's the Minimum I Should Drive My Car?

 If you're not a regular driver of your car, it can be easy to feel disconnected from the mechanics of the thing. Out of sight, out of mind, right? Not necessarily: We recommend driving every two to three weeks to make it less likely that you wind up with a dead battery, flat-spotted tires or other issues that can be caused by letting a car sit parked for weeks.
 We've heard many people say they let their cars sit for months in a garage with no problems, but you're better off driving it a couple of times each month and for at least 10 miles, with some speeds over 50 mph if possible. You not only want your engine to get fully warmed up but for the entire car to get some exercise as well.

Letting a car idle for 10 minutes will get the engine up to normal operating temperature but accomplish little else. Driving the car for several miles wakes up the transmission, brakes, suspension, power steering, climate system (including the air conditioner) and all the fluids, seals and gaskets for those components that have been on a long snooze.

Batteries slowly lose their charge when they sit idle, and starting the car will drain it even more. That is one reason you want to drive several miles afterward, so the battery has a chance to recharge. If a car sits parked for a month or more, the battery may lose so much power that it will need a jump-start — or a  charge before the engine will start. To be sure your car will always start, consider a battery tender as described in our guide, "How to Store Your Car for Winter." Unlike the rechargeable batteries in electronics, conventional car starter batteries don't like to cycle deeply, so keeping them topped off could improve their longevity.

Here are more reasons not to let your car sit for several weeks or longer:

Tires slowly lose air under all conditions but especially during cold weather. As they do, the weight of the car keeps pressing down on the tires, which causes flat spots to develop on the segments sitting on the ground. Driving the car and adding air if necessary will usually make the tires round again, but letting the vehicle sit for extended periods on underinflated tires can cause permanent flat spots that you will be able to feel and hear when you drive.
Rodents might take up residence under the hood or even in exhaust outlets. If they get hungry, some may munch on the wiring harnesses and other parts made of soy and other organic materials that are used on modern vehicles.
Moisture can collect in the gas tank (especially if it isn't full) and in the oil over time, and that can lead to corrosion.

What's Included in a Tuneup?

A car tuneup is an outdated service consisting of replacing parts to bring the ignition and fuel systems up to spec for maximum engine performance and efficiency. A traditional tuneup hasn't been available or necessary for years. Today's remaining tuneup services include new spark plugs and cabin air filter replacement. Both are part of your vehicle's maintenance schedule just as much as checking tire pressure or getting an oil change are — and today's "tuneup" services are likely to be more like checkups for your car.

Spark plugs, for example, are typically replaced every 100,000 miles. And the federal EPA and Department of Energy say that replacing a clogged air filter will not improve gas mileage but can improve acceleration by roughly 6 to 11 percent. The agencies do not say what benefit can be derived from fresh spark plugs, but computers that control today's engines adjust the air-fuel mixture and spark timing to compensate for wear, such as when the electrodes on spark plugs are worn down.

Even so, some car owners still dutifully take their vehicle in periodically to have it "tuned up." Instead, what actually happens is that service technicians will inspect and perhaps test the fuel, ignition and emissions systems to look for faulty vacuum hoses, oxygen sensors and various other parts that can hurt the car's performance. The federal government, for example, says a bad oxygen sensor can give engine computers false readings and reduce fuel economy by as much as 40 percent.

Don't Ask for a Tuneup, Just Follow Your Car's Maintenance Schedule
Having your vehicle serviced and inspected periodically is a good way to extend its life and keep it operating efficiently. (Here are some signs your car needs to be checked by a mechanic.) However, walking into a repair facility and asking for a tuneup is a bad idea because it indicates you're still living in a previous century with no knowledge of what your car actually needs and have extra money to spend. Some in the auto repair business will take advantage of those opportunities.

Look in the owner's manual for your vehicle (or separate maintenance schedule) to find what the manufacturer recommends, and see if you can even find the word "tuneup." (Finding it with a hyphen counts; don't worry, we'll wait.) For example, we looked at the maintenance guide for the Ford Fiesta that also applies to other Ford vehicles. The first mention of anything related to a traditional tuneup was to replace the engine air filter every 30,000 miles. The only other related item was to replace the spark plugs every 100,000 miles.

Why Is It Hard to Shift My Automatic Transmission Out of Park?

Vehicles with an automatic transmission might not have a clutch and a stick shift, but they can still have trouble shifting. At times, drivers may have trouble getting the car out of Park and into gear. Problems with shifting your automatic transmission can come from a few different places, starting with the shift interlock feature. This is the part of an automatic transmission which requires you to step on the brake pedal to prevent unintentional shifting out of Park. If you are having trouble shifting the transmission, the interlock could be malfunctioning.

If the interlock switch is worn and not fully releasing, or the brakelights don't receive a signal from the brakelight switch to illuminate (which makes the transmission think that the brakes aren't engaged), you won't be able to shift out of Park.

Alternatively, the shift cable or linkage connecting the shift lever to the transmission could be gummed up with grease or corroded so that it can't operate freely. Grease, dirt and moisture can collect in or on the interlock and brakelight switches as well as on the shift cable and related parts, hampering their operation and making it hard to shift into gear. When that happens, you're most likely to have problems shifting out of Park when the engine and transmission are cold, such as after the car has sat for hours. After the engine gets warm — and other parts throughout the vehicle get warmer, as well — the goo might become softer and make it easier to shift out of Park.

A transmission that's low on transmission fluid also can be hard to shift out of Park, though that also would likely cause a noticeable degradation in the transmission's overall performance, such as sluggish or harsh shifts. Changing the fluid is an infrequent maintenance item, but it still needs to be monitored.

Another possible cause is that when a vehicle is parked on even a slight incline, it will put more load on the transmission parking pawl (a bar that engages teeth in a transmission gear to prevent the vehicle from rolling). This is more likely to happen if you didn't engage the parking brake before releasing the brake pedal. The weight of the vehicle rolling onto the parking pawl makes it harder to shift out of Park. To avoid this, engage the parking brake when on an incline before shifting into Park or releasing the brake pedal. That way the parking brake, not the transmission pawl, bears the load and will allow you to shift freely.

If the vehicle won't shift out of park, don't be too alarmed — there's still a way to move it. Most cars have a means of overriding the shift lock to put the car in gear so you can drive to a mechanic for repairs rather than having it towed. A small door with a cover is often found on the console next to or close to the shifter itself. After prying this cover off, one can insert a screwdriver or key and press down to release the lock. Vehicles with column shifters (attached behind the steering wheel) may hide the release on top of the steering column or on the bottom. Your owner's manual will help you identify the location of the shift lock in your vehicle.

Do Cars Have More Than One Belt That Needs Replacing?

All cars have an accessory belt that drives features such as the alternator and air-conditioning compressor, and perhaps the water and power steering pumps. This belt is usually mounted externally so you can see it on the front end of the engine (the engine is mounted transversely on most front-wheel-drive cars), and it usually is a serpentine belt that slithers around various pulleys. It needs to be replaced when it shows wear, such as cracks, fraying or stretching.

Some car engines also have a timing belt that is hidden from view but connects the crankshaft on the bottom of the engine to the cylinder head on the top; it controls when valves open and close. Many engines have a timing chain instead of a belt. A key difference is that a timing chain is usually considered a lifetime part that doesn't require periodic replacement. A timing belt does require replacement, though the manufacturer's maintenance schedule may not call for that until as much as 150,000 miles, as with some current Ford engines.

If either belt breaks, a car is going to soon come to a halt. Once a timing belt breaks, the engine shuts off and you won't be able to restart it. With many cars, you might be able to restart the engine after a serpentine belt breaks, but you won't get far if it drives the alternator. Without the alternator, you'll be relying on electrical power from the battery, and once that's gone, you'll really be out of luck.

Though serpentine belts can last more than 100,000 miles, they should be inspected by a mechanic periodically (if you know what to look for, you can do this yourself). Consult your owner's manual or service schedule to find out how frequently it should be inspected. This varies by manufacturer: Hyundai, for example, says that on some current four-cylinders, this should be done after six years or 60,000 miles and then every two years or 15,000 miles; Volkswagen calls for it every 40,000 miles; on some Ford vehicles, it isn't until 100,000 miles.

Serpentine belt replacement costs also vary, and we've seen estimates from less than $75 to more than $150 for the accessory. The best approach is to have it inspected before the recommended interval, and if you decide to have it replaced, you'll have time to shop around. You may hear warning signals that a serpentine belt is on its last legs, such as squealing noises when you start the engine or accelerate, or rattling noises from a pulley or tensioner.

Replacing a timing belt is a more involved and costly procedure, typically running from at least $500 to more than $1,000 depending on what kind of car you drive. Even worse, on some engines, if the timing belt breaks, the pistons may continue to move up and down, and in the process the piston can hit and bend valves that have lost their timing mechanism. That can add up to big bucks — possibly $3,000 or more.

That makes timing belt replacement more critical, but because it isn't visible, you can't easily check it. That involves removing the accessory drive belts, the engine cover and other hardware just to get a look at it, and no repair shop is going to do this for nothing (they also have to reassemble everything). That is why you should pay close attention to the manufacturer's recommended timing belt replacement schedule. Here, too, recommendations vary: Some Honda V-6 engines call for timing belt replacement at 60,000 miles, for example, but the 1.8-liter four-cylinder used in some Chevrolets lists it at 100,000 miles.

With some engines, the timing belt also drives the water pump, so repair shops may recommend that the water pump be replaced at the same time as the belt. That makes sense because if the water pump breaks a few months after the timing belt is replaced, a mechanic is going to have to go back in there, disassemble everything, replace the coolant and charge you at least a few more hours of labor — again.

In both cases, these serpentine and timing belts can and do fail prematurely. The key is to not wait too long to replace either belt because you could wind up stranded and at least be inconvenienced, if not forced, to shell out more money.